Winter Habitats for our Winged Visitors

WInter Bird Habitat_FI

(ARA) – As temperatures fall and nature’s food supply dwindles across the country, some birds will migrate to more hospitable areas while others will stay and tough it out. Regardless of where you live, the bird populations present in your area this winter could use your assistance. Attract and welcome these feathered friends to your backyard with a bird-friendly habitat.

Creating a habitat is simple, and can be done without a full re-landscaping or owning a 20-acre farm. All it takes is a source of food, water and shelter. Even a small apartment balcony can become an urban oasis for birds this winter with just a few simple additions.

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“Birds need help finding enough food and water all year round, but especially in the winter when natural resources are limited, and ice or snow may make access to berries, seeds and water more challenging,” says ScottsMiracle-Gro Chief Ornithologist, Ghislain Rompre. “Even in warmer climates, food and water availability changes seasonally – and wildlife benefits from supplemental sources.”

Food
Birds enjoy finding new supplies of food and eat constantly in the winter to retain their body heat and energy. In fact, birds may come to rely on feeders, especially in severe weather, because feeders offer an easy-access meal close to their home. Quality bird food mixes are a great way to supplement the diets of these little visitors. For suggestions on which bird foods to purchase and which products are available in your region visit www.scottswildbirdfood.com. Remember to continually refill feeders to encourage return visitors and always keep bird feeders clean to prevent diseases.

A simple bird feeder can be hung from a tree or stuck to a window with a suction cup to provide the essential supplement that birds appreciate all year long. But, why stop there? Get your whole family involved creating outdoor winter decorations that add a pop of color and whimsy to the backyard or balcony. Use pinecones, peanut butter and bird food to make your own mini feeders. Add slices of apples, pears and oranges to a festive evergreen wreath that the aviary community will eat up. String whole nuts, cranberries and even popcorn into attractive garland for the porch for the wildlife to enjoy. Cut oranges or grapefruit in half, scoop out the middle and fill with bird food for little feeding stations that will last all winter. In snowy regions, kids will enjoy leaving “drawings” for the birds to dine on. Stamp down the snow under a feeder and use birdseed to “draw” an outline of a large cardinal, robin or any other bird. Then, simply fill the outline in with seeds, nuts and berries to create an original work of art that the birds and squirrels will eat up.

Don’t forget that birds can also get food, as well as shelter, all year round when native shrubs and plants are used in the landscape. Whether in a pot on the deck or spread out around the yard, native shrubs like sumac, holly, saltbush, hackberry or hawthorn can provide berries and seeds that birds love to eat. For more ideas on native plants that grow in your area, visit www.nwf.org.

Water
Water is the single-most important asset for visiting birds in your backyard. In the winter, birds can become dehydrated even when surrounded by snow and ice. That’s why providing a water source is even more important in the winter. Moving water is most attractive to birds so an electric or solar-powered fountain or birdbath is ideal, but any clean fresh water will do. An easy solution is to place a shallow container of warm water in a sunny spot and refill it often. In colder regions where water is prone to freeze, bird enthusiasts may want to invest in an electric birdbath heater to encourage those feathered visitors to return frequently.

Shelter
Offering protection from the harsh weather or from predators is essential in creating a welcoming habitat for birds. Shrubs and evergreen trees are ideal, but there are other ways to provide shelter as well. A simple bird house or nesting box can be hung from the porch or fence. Leaves and sticks can be piled up in a remote corner of the yard to be used as shelter or as nesting material.

Winters are long and cold, but providing a little comfort for the birds may just warm you up. Watching the different kinds of birds visiting your feeders can keep you entertained for hours, and knowing that you’ve helped those winged visitors get through the winter can make you feel good too. Share and find tips, projects and ideas for attracting specific breeds of birds by joining the conversation with the Scotts Wild Bird Food Facebook community. Or download the Scotts Bird ID App from the Apple App Store and post and track birding activity in your area.

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From Patch to Table: the Many Uses of a Pumpkin

PumpkinSoup_FI

(BPT) – While pumpkins are most often associated with holiday pies, don’t underestimate this favorite of the squash and gourd family. Not only is the mighty pumpkin delicious, but it is also quite the multi-tasker.  

“Pumpkins are incredibly versatile. They can be used in virtually any application,” says Chef Joseph Brown, culinary chair at The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of Raleigh – Durham, a campus of South University. From sweet to savory, desserts to dinners, Brown and Chef Arthur Inzinga, culinary instructor at The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of Pittsburgh, offer tips and ideas for making the most of your pumpkins.

Pumpkin can be added to a variety of dishes to provide textural elements as well as flavor. “When pumpkin is cooked down it is very similar to mashed potatoes, but more sweet and flavorful,” says Brown. “It brings a sweetness to the table, which is its most unique aspect.” He adds that anywhere a potato is being cut up and cooked, pumpkin would be a good addition and/or substitution.

Pureed pumpkin can be added to a variety of sauces and soups, and according to Inzinga, “pumpkin is used a lot in conjunction with pasta.”  He recommends using it as a filling in gnocchi: “Typically, gnocchi is made with potato puree. You can substitute pumpkin puree.” Brown also notes it can be used as a filling for ravioli.

Adding the bold flavor of pumpkin to a variety of dishes can be achieved with some simple substitutions. Pumpkin chili can be created by augmenting some of the stock and tomato with pureed pumpkin. “This brings a richness to the chili. The pumpkin is going to be as much a textural component as it is a flavorful item,” says Brown. He also adds that pumpkin and tomato go together beautifully. This can be seen in autumn or pumpkin pizza, where the pumpkin becomes part of the sauce. Brown likes to top his pumpkin pizza with barbequed chicken. Inzinga recommends juicing some of the pumpkin pulp and using it as the cooking liquid for risotto or mixing equal parts pureed pumpkin to mashed potatoes. “It can be used as an ingredient in pancakes and waffles to replace some of the liquid and add flavor,” he says.

Pumpkin can also take center stage in dishes such as pumpkin-based bread puddings and ice creams and pumpkin butter. Inzinga says pumpkin butter is much like apple butter and can be created by adding pumpkin pie spices and cooking the pumpkin down until it is a spreadable consistency. He also recommends pumpkin/apple smoothies made with pureed pumpkin, apple juice and a bit of yogurt.

Enjoy the full flavor of the pumpkin by dicing and roasting with other root vegetables, sauteing it to bring out its natural flavors or even putting it on the grill. Brown says the slow heat of the grill brings out natural sugars, removes moisture and condenses the flavor. 

Don’t forget that the flesh isn’t the only part of the pumpkin that can be used. The seeds can be roasted and used as a garnish on breads, muffins or on pumpkin soup; added to homemade granola; or pureed into sauces and pesto. According to Inzinga, the flower blossoms can be battered and fried or stuffed and baked. Both chefs even recommend using hollowed-out pumpkins as bowls and tureens for chili or soup.

“It’s important for people to realize that when you go pumpkin picking, those pumpkins are grown for their size and shape, not necessarily flavor,” says Brown. The large pumpkins are less sweet. He says there are hundreds of varieties of pumpkins, and you can get more sweetness and flavor if you are more selective. He recommends allaboutpumpkins.com as a reference for the characteristics of different types of pumpkins.

Tips for roasting a pumpkin:
To roast a pumpkin, Brown recommends roasting it at 350 to 375 F for a medium-length roasting time. The flesh will brown a bit. For a more concentrated flavor, roast at 300 F for a longer period of time and bump the temperature up to 425 F for the last 15 to 20 minutes. Pumpkins are a lot like potatoes – you can tell if they are done by touch. They will get softer the longer they cook.

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Plant Bulbs This Fall for a Spring Blossom Bonanza

Bulbs_FI

One of the simplest, least expensive, and most rewarding fall gardening activities is planting spring flowering bulbs. Although they appear to be nothing more than small, dead, brown orbs, bulbs are very much alive. They contain everything needed to survive cold winter temperatures, produce a wide array of beautiful flowers in the spring, and to return and reproduce year after year.

Bulb Selection
The key to having success with spring flowering bulbs is purchasing healthy, quality bulbs. Purchase bulbs early from a reputable source and store them in a cool, dry place that is well ventilated. In general the larger and healthier the bulb, the better flowering it will be.

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Planting Tips
- Plant bulbs in the fall once night time temperatures consistently fall to between 50° F and 40° F for two weeks straight
- Plant bulbs in an area that receives full sun
- Plant bulbs in holes that are three times their height (ex. plant a 2” tall bulb in 6” deep hole).
- Plant bulbs with their tip pointing up, and their base down
- Plant small bulbs about 2” apart, and large bulbs about 6” apart
- Water the planting site well after planting

Bulb Life Cycle
Once planted, the bulbs roots begin to develop in the fall. During the winter, the bulbs roots continue to develop and the floral and leaf meristems (the initial emerging leaf and flower stems) start to develop. In the spring, the shoots elongate, flowering occurs, and daughter bulbs (new bulbs attached to the sides of a bulb) form. In the summer, shoots senesce, or wither, daughter bulb formation is complete, the original old bulb separates, and the new daughter bulbs may be harvested.

Forcing Bulbs
A great way to get even more enjoyment out of your bulbs is to plant a few in containers for “forcing” to create indoor flowering container plants. Forcing a bulb is simply a means of tricking the bulb into thinking it has spent a long cold winter outdoors in the ground, and that it is now spring and time to bloom.

Place 1” of gravel in a small pot. Using a light weight potting soil, place several bulbs in the soil in the pot about ½” apart. Leave the tip of the bulbs just showing above the soil. The potted bulbs now need to be stored at between 50° F and 40° F for 10 to 12 weeks to simulate winter. The vegetable drawer in your refrigerator is the perfect environment for this if you have the room. After this time, move the potted bulbs to a cool dimly lit area for a few days, and finally move them to a brightly lit area where they will bloom. Be sure to keep the bulbs slightly moist.

Favorite Varieties

Dutch Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)
Paperwhite (Narcissus papyraceus)
Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus)
Tulip (Tulipa gesneriana)
Summer Snowflake (Leucojum aestivum)

Summary
Spring flowering bulbs, planted in the fall, can provide a vast assortment of colors, textures, and scents in your garden for years to come. Experiment with different types and cultivars to see which ones grow best for you. Once you’ve found your favorites, dig up and share the daughter bulbs, that grow along side the original bulb, with friends and loved ones. A little time spent planting bulbs this fall will be rewarded many times over this spring, and for many springs to come. Enjoy.

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Chrysanthemums – A Fall Classic

Chrysanthemums_FI

Chrysanthemum morifolium, more commonly known as Chrysanthemums, or Mums, are a classic fall planting in landscapes and gardens all over the world. They were first grown as a flowering herb as early as the 15th century BC in China, brought to Japan in the 8th century, and introduced to Europe in the 17th century.

Although most often used as an annual planting, or placed in pots along walkways, they are actually a hardy perennial that is easy to grow and which will return more beautifully each year. Chrysanthemums are adapted to Plant Hardiness Zones 5-9. They can be grown in a variety of soil types, as long as it is well drained. They require full sun, and in colder climates must be protected in the winter. At maturity they reach heights of anywhere from 12 to 36 inches.

Planting and Care
Plant containerized Chrysanthemums anytime during the spring, summer, or early fall. The earlier they are planted, the better developed their root system will be come winter. When planting, incorporate 2 – 4” of peat moss or compost into the soil and space them 18 – 24” apart to allow adequate air circulation. Water them regularly in the summer to a depth of 6 – 8” and mulch. Apply a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 in the spring and again in August.

Flower Fact
A Chrysanthemum bloom, which appears to be a single flower, is actually composed of hundreds of smaller flowers called florets. Each one of these florets is capable of producing a seed, similar to its plant relative, the Sunflower. The National Chrysanthemum Society, Inc., USA divides Chrysanthemums into 13 classes based primarily on its bloom form.

[ Class 1 Irregular Incurve ]
The largest blooms of the chrysanthemum genus. Characterized by loose, incurve florets with fully closed centers. Florets on towards the bottom of the bloom sometimes droop downwards to give a skirted effect.
[ Class 2 Reflex ]
Characterized by florets that overlap and curve downward, having the appearance of bird plumage.
Photo by Union County College

Photo by Union County College

[ Class 3 Regular Incurve ]
Characterized by a globular bloom, with florets which smoothly incurve and form a ball.
Photo by Union County College

Photo by Union County College

[ Class 4 Decorative ]
Characterized by a more flattened bloom with short petals. As in classes 1-3 the center disk should not be visible. The upper florets tend to incurve, but the lower petals generally reflex.
Photo by University of Minnesota Extension

Photo by University of Minnesota Extension

[ Class 5 Intermediate Incurve ]
This bloom class is smaller than the irregular incurve, with shorter florets, only partially incurving with full centers, but giving a more open appearance. Many of the popular commercial incurving types are in this intermediate class.
Sten Porse

Sten Porse

[ Class 6 Pompon ]
A small globular bloom, somewhat flat when young but fully round when mature. Size ranges from small button types to large disbudded blooms almost 4 inches in diameter. The florets incurve or reflex in a regular manner and fully conceal the center.
[ Class 7 Single and Semi-Double ]
A daisy-like flower with a center disk and one or more rows of ray florets.
Photo by KENPEI

Photo by KENPEI

[ Class 8 Anemone ]
These blooms are similar to the semi-doubles, but have a raised cushion-like center.
Photo by  Abhishek Mishra

Photo by Abhishek Mishra

[ Class 9 Spoon ]
Essentially the same as the semi-double, except the ray florets are like spoons at the tips. The center disk is round and visible.
[ Class 10 Quill ]
The florets in this Class are straight and tubular with open tips. The bloom is fully double with no open center.
Photo taken by Fanghong

Photo by Fanghong

Class 11 Spider -
Characterized by long tubular ray florets, fine to course in nature, that sometimes form coils, or hooks on their ends.
Photo by  Juni

Photo by Juni

[ Class 12 Brush or Thistle ]
Fine tubular florets which grow parallel to the stem and resemble an artist's paint brushes or in the thistle form the florets are flattened, twisted and dropping.
[ Class 13 Unclassified ]
Those blooms which fit in none of the other classes. They are often exotic, with twisted florets. They may also exhibit characteristics of more than one bloom class.

Interesting Use
One of the most important commercial uses of the Chrysanthemum is for the production of the organic insecticide Pyrethrum. The flowers are crushed, and the active component contained in the seed case is extracted. Pyrethrum is one of the most effective, yet least toxic insecticides with a Lethal Dosage (LD50) Value of > 18,000.

Summary
With it’s myriad of shapes, colors, and textures, Chrysanthemums can make a dramatic impact in your garden or landscape not only this fall, but for many years to come. Try some out this season.

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Health Story of the Year: Salt Vindicated

Salt Vindicated_FI

(ARA) – Paul T. Meagher sometimes gets disapproving stares when people see him sprinkle his food with salt as he has done since he was a young lad growing up in Ireland. He has a response for such people.

“I tell them you can take my blood pressure right now, or we can have a run around the block, and I guarantee you I’m in better shape than you,” said Meagher, 68, who now lives in Westport, Mass. “I’m fit, at least for my age, and I use salt every day in volume. Hasn’t done me a blind bit of harm, which is the way we put it from where I come from.”

Recent research quantifies Meagher’s experience. In 2011, half a dozen medical studies showed the health benefits of salt or revealed the significant risks of low-sodium diets — providing vindication for this essential nutrient and the people, like Meagher, who love it.

“The vindication of salt is probably the biggest health and nutrition story of the last year,” says Lori Roman, president of the Salt Institute. “Everyone knows salt tastes good, but the latest research published in leading medical journals confirms that salt is good for you, too. The medical studies underline what we have been saying for years: science is on salt’s side.”

The new data raises questions about the federal government’s effort to put Americans on a low-salt diet. The Food and Drug Administration is inviting online public comments about ways to reduce sodium consumption. In the past, such invitations have foreshadowed the rollout of new regulations.

Iodized salt is table salt mixed with very small amounts of iodine. The ingestion of iodide prevents iodine deficiency. Worldwide, iodine deficiency affects about two billion people and is the leading preventable cause of mental retardation. Lack of iodine in your diet can also cause thyroid gland problems, including endemic goiter, and hypothyroidism, a condition in which the thyroid does not produce enough hormone.

Iodine is a micronutrient that is naturally present in the food supply in many regions. However, where natural levels of iodine in the soil are low and the iodine is not taken up by vegetables, iodine added to salt provides the small but essential amount needed by humans. According to Dr. Philip G. Young, author of “Thyroid Guardian of Health.” Iodized salt is an important component to the American diet because much of the soil in the United States is deficient in iodine.

The six peer-reviewed medical studies documented:

Type 1 Diabetes risk: In a study of patients with type 1 diabetes, low sodium intake was associated with renal disease and premature death.

Type 2 Diabetes risk: In an Australian study of type 2 diabetes patients, lower sodium was associated with increased risk of death from cardiovascular disease.

No benefit to salt reduction: A study published in the American Journal of Hypertension showed eating less salt will not prevent heart attacks, strokes or early death. On the contrary, low-sodium diets increase the likelihood of premature death.

Risk of death: A study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association concluded that lower salt intakes resulted in higher death rates.

Other negative effects of low-salt intakes: An analysis published in the American Journal of Hypertension showed individuals placed on the U.S. Dietary Guidelines-recommended salt levels experienced significant increases in cholesterol and other risk factors for diabetes and cardiovascular disease.

Risk with current U.S. Dietary Guidelines: An analysis published in the Journal of the American Medical Association showed that people who ate salt at the levels recommended by the U.S. government were at greater risk of cardiovascular events.

The research has prompted new scrutiny of the government’s attempts to put all Americans on a low-salt diet. Scientific American reviewed medical studies over several decades and concluded in a headline: “It’s time to end the war on salt.” The respected magazine also said, “The zealous drive by politicians to limit our salt intake has little basis in science.”

Meagher remembers when the federal government told him eggs could be bad for his health. He ignored that advice, too.

“I would rather the federal government stay well away from my kitchen altogether,” Meagher says. “I will continue to eat my boiled eggs from an egg cup, with an egg spoon, and with plenty of salt.”

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Firewise Landscaping

Wildfire

With the severe drought and heat wave that has been blanketing most of the country, and the wildfires ravaging Colorado this summer, now is the time to take steps to prepare for the unexpected. With the rain we’ve had here in Central Texas the past week or two, last summer’s wildfires seem to fade ever farther into the recesses of our memory. But in the words of George Bernard Shaw, “If history repeats itself, and the unexpected always happens, how incapable must Man be of learning from experience.” Remember, last summer in Texas alone, almost 4 million acres were burned due to wildfires. That’s more land area than the states of Rhode Island, Delaware, and Connecticut each contain.

Photo By John Nelson, IDV Solutions

Photo By John Nelson, IDV Solutions

A Change in how Wildfires are Viewed
In the past several years, there has been a major paradigm shift in the way wildfires are perceived. For decades, there was a zero tolerance policy towards wildfires and an emphasis was placed on how to extinguish them once started. The realization now is that fire is a necessary element in nature. Small wildfires that happen occasionally cause less damage and prevent the accumulation of fuel in the forest such as leaves and dead branches. This in turn helps to prevent the mega-wildfires that occur when this fuel has built up over many years and is finally ignited. Firefighters are also taking a more proactive, rather than reactive, approach toward wildfires. Emphasis is being placed on steps that can be taken before a wildfire starts that will minimize the damage it causes.

Where the Forest Meets Your Home
Damage to property is greatest when a wildfire moves from the forest into inhabited areas. This “Wildland Urban Interface” is the new battleground where preventative steps can be taken now that will greatly enhance your home’s ability to survive a wildfire. According to Jack Cohen, Research Physical Scientist, U.S. Forest Service, “You don’t have to live in a concrete block home with stainless steel doors and a metal deck all the way around it. You just have to remember – it’s the little things that count.”

Keep the Fire on the Ground and out of the Tree Canopy
Post-fire assessments of homes damaged by wildfires uncovered two key points. First, wildfires increase exponentially in size and intensity when the fire can spread from the ground up into the tree canopy. It takes less than sixty seconds for the fire front to move through a given point. By keeping the fire close to the ground, a home can more easily survive without igniting as the fire passes through. Second, and perhaps most surprising, was the fact that 75% of the homes burned in wildfires was due to ember accumulation, rather than direct contact with the wildfire. Embers blown by the wind can travel more than a mile from the actual fire. During a large wildfire, one home per second may ignite due to embers. Given that it takes an average of 20 firefighters to contain a single house fire, one can easily see that more fire fighters, and more fire trucks is not a realistic answer to containing wildfires.

The Home Ignition Zone
Proper landscaping and maintenance in the area surrounding your home can serve as a fire break by reducing flammable vegetation and materials, and limiting the ability of a wildfire to move from the grass up into the tree canopy. According to the Texas Forest Service, the “home ignition zone” is the area that extends up to 200 feet out from your home in all directions and can be divided into three sub-zones.

Zone 1
Zone 1 extends 30 feet out from your home and should be well-irrigated, and free from fuels such as dead vegetation, leaves, clutter, debris, and firewood stacks. Keep your lawn mowed, and use low-growing plants that are carefully spaced, have high moisture content and low resin content. Emphasize the use of flowers within this space and limit dense placement of cedars, rosemary, arborvitae, and pines. Trim trees in this area up to at least 6 to 10 feet above the ground and 3 feet back from over your house. Use non-flammable mulch within 5 feet of your house, such as gravel or river rock, and be sure to limit “ladder fuel” plants that will allow a wildfire to go from the ground up into the trees.

An untrimmed Live Oak tree is a potential “Fuel Ladder” to allow a wildfire to spread from the ground up into the tree canopy.

Zone 2
Zone 2 extends from 30 to 100 feet from your house. Where possible, limit trees in this zone to clusters of two or three that are also limbed up 6 to 10 feet above the ground. Use low flammability plants here, remove woody debris, and extend your irrigation system to this area.

Zone 3
Zone 3 is the area between 100 and 200 feet out from your home. This area should also be free of woody debris and have the trees thinned so that the canopies are not touching.

The Main Purpose
The overall goal of Firewise Landscaping is to keep the wildfire close to the ground, so that it can quickly move through your property, and limit areas where embers can gather and start spot fires.

Ready, Set, Go
As a homeowner or landowner, we often take comfort in the fact the Fire Department is nearby and that we regularly make our homeowners insurance payments. But ultimately, we must do everything in our power to be prepared for a wildfire. Just remember the phrase “Ready, Set, Go.” Be ready for a wildfire by practicing Firewise Landscaping. Have a set plan in place for when a wildfire approaches. And, when it comes right down to it, go. If you need to evacuate, you can at least take comfort in the fact that you did everything in your power to limit the intensity of, and damage caused by a wildfire to your home and property. The lives of your family are far more important than trying to make a heroic last stand. Be sure that our last quote of the day never applies to you, “History repeats itself, first as tragedy, second as farce.”

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Time to Start Planning your Fall Garden

Fall Garden Plan_FI

Even as the temperatures soar, the excitement of fireworks are still fresh in your mind, and the garden is producing at its peak, it’s time to grab a cold drink, find some shade, and start making plans for your fall garden. Thoughts of fall are probably the last thing on your mind right now. But by planning, and where appropriate planting now, your landscape and garden will be ready to flourish this fall.

Keep them Growing
As garden herbs start to bolter, cut them back to keep the plant producing new foliage rather than going to seed. For tomato or pepper plants that have stopped producing due to the heat, just remove any dead leaves, keep them watered, and they should start to bear fruit again when cooler fall weather arrives.

Clean it up
Remove any dead or spent plants from the garden, and if they are not diseased, add them to your compost pile. Pull any weeds that may have started to take hold.

Amend the Soil
Add compost to garden beds and till into the soil. This will help replace nutrients taken up by the previous planting.

Draw a Plan
You don’t need a degree in art or an expensive software program to draw a rough sketch of your landscape and garden plan. If you have the original survey from when you bought your house, make a copy of it and use that as a starting point. If not, just make a rough sketch of the footprint of your home. Draw in existing landscape features, and planned garden areas. Indicate which way is north and make note of any shady or poorly drained areas.

Add Fall Color
Look at your landscape as a whole and determine what native or locally adapted fall flowers are best suited to the different areas of your yard based on their color, size, water requirements, and the amount of sun needed. By planting now, they will be well established and ready to flower come fall.

Grow What You Like
Make a list of the fall vegetables for your area that your family likes and rank them from most to least liked. Plan to plant what you like. If no one in your family likes beets or brussels sprouts, for example, then plan on planting more of what is most liked.

Can, Store, or Eat
Decide what the intended use for each vegetable and herb will be. Do you plan on canning enough to last through the winter? Will you be freezing or dehydrating, or will you just eat and enjoy what you harvest this fall. Different varieties of many vegetables are better suited to a specific purpose such as canning. Do your research.

Add New Beds
Now that you know what you will be planting and what your harvest will be used for, you can determine how much of each variety you should plant. Look at your existing bed space and any areas of your yard that you may want to convert to garden beds. For new beds, avoid low-lying, poorly drained areas. Clear the ground, till and amend the soil now.

Order Seeds Now
Now that you’ve determined which vegetables, what varieties, and how many of each you will be planting this fall, order your seeds now. This will ensure that you get exactly what you want and have them ready to plant when the time arrives. Be sure to check out our comprehensive Seed Source Guide for an alphabetical listing of many sources of Seeds, Transplants, and Bulbs for Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers, Grains, Grasses, Ground Covers, Vines, Fruits, Sprouting, Trees, Wildflowers, and much more.

Don’t Lose Track of Today
Remember to enjoy each day on its own merit. It’s easy to get worn down by the heat, the weeding, and the canning. But don’t let the anticipation of your fall garden, and the promise of cooler temperatures yet to come, distract you from today. Remember, “To everything there is a season.”

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The Five Stages of Gardening

5 Stages of Gardening_FI

Just as life has its seasons, so too does gardening. The seasons of gardening are…, well um…, winter, spring, summer, and fall. Hmm, let me try that one again.

Just as in life, gardening has its peaks and valleys, its ups and downs, its ebbs and flows. You’ve made it through another long winter where you carefully planned what to plant, when to plant it, and how much to plant.

And then, finally, Spring. Remember the thrill of those first warm spring days, when the danger of frost had passed, and you could finally get your hands in the soil to plant. Soon there was the excitement when that first hint of a new plant peaked out from the soil you worked so hard to prepare.

Before you knew it, your first harvest of green beans, that first vine ripe tomato, fresh strawberries. “Gardening is great!” “I love my garden.”

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But soon, all of the potatoes need to be harvested. “Will the kids mind if I store them under their beds?” The green bean plants are spent. “What was I going to plant there next?” The pill bugs are eating the strawberries. “How do I get rid of them again?” The lettuce is starting to wilt. “Am I watering too much or not enough?” You’ve inquired into having a phone extension placed in the garden so that friends and loved ones can actually reach you.

Before you realize it, your gardening thoughts have ever so slowly turned from excitement and pleasure to a sense of foreboding and dread. You find yourself lying in bed at night, in a cold sweat, staring at the ceiling, wondering how you are going to get all of your gardening done tomorrow. “The kids can probably get themselves up, make their own breakfast, and get to school on their own. After all, they’re in first grade now.” “If we can just get one more meal out of that bowl of leftover macaroni and cheese I won’t need to go shopping.”

What once was a gentle distraction from the pressures of everyday life has now gotten to the point where you are really looking forward to that trip to the dentist for a root canal because it will give you a break from the garden. In the words of Charles Dickens, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…”

But fear not. You are not alone. All across the land, gardeners everywhere are having the same thoughts of self-doubt and low garden-esteem. To help better understand and deal with your gardening angst, here is my adaptation of the Kübler-Ross Model, commonly known as the The Five Stages Of Grief.

The Five Stages of Grief Gardening:

1. Denial — “Those green beans will be fine, It’s just a few hundred locusts.”; “Squash vine borers, This can’t be happening, not to me.”

2. Anger — “Why my spinach? It’s not fair!”; “How can this happen to me? I’m 100% organic”; ‘”Where can I find some DDT?”

3. Bargaining — “Just let me get one more tomato before the birds eat them all”; “I’ll do anything for a few more ears of corn.”; “I promise to install a rainwater harvesting system next year if…”

4. Depression — “I am so tired, why bother pulling weeds at all?”; “I don’t like eggplant all that much anyway… What’s the point?”; “I miss my peppers”

5. Acceptance — “It’s going to be okay.”; “I may as well enjoy canning those twelve bushels of tomatoes.”

Perhaps in better understanding the stages of gardening, and identifying which stage you are in, you will once again find peace in your garden. Of course in the time it took you to read this article, you could have mulched at least a third of your raised beds. What’s wrong with you anyway!? What are you, lazy!? Oops. Sorry about that. I guess I’m still in the anger stage after birds ate my entire blueberry harvest the other day. Let me see, where were we? That’s right. There is no better way to achieve a peaceful state of mind than by gardening.

Editor’s Note: No animals were harmed, or small children sent to school without breakfast, in the writing of this article. This is a work of satire. The author really does like gardening. He’ll be much better after the growing season is over. Either that or he will spend all winter complaining about the cold and fussing about how he can’t wait to get back out in the garden come spring.

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Urban Forestry

Sunlight through Tree_2

Urban Forestry. The term itself appears to be either a typo by the author, or an oxymoron. At first glance, it seems to make about as much sense as Rural Mass Transit, or Underwater Skydiving.

So just what is Urban Forestry? The U.S. Census Bureau defines an urban area as having a population density of at least 1,000 people per square mile, and surrounding areas that have an overall density of at least 500 people per square mile. The trees that grow in yards, parks, shopping centers, commercial properties, and along streets in these high density, man-made environments are collectively called the “urban forest.”

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The basic concepts of urban forestry have been practiced for centuries in the United States. In the 1700’s, a city ordinance was passed in Philadelphia mandating that every homeowner “plant one or more trees before the door that the town may be well-shaded from the violence of the sun…and thereby be rendered more healthy.” In 1872, the New York City Commissioner of Health recommended that street trees be planted to mitigate the intense heat to reduce the death rate of children.

Here in Texas, The Texas Forest Service Urban Forestry Program helps build self-sustaining urban forestry and tree care programs by working with communities, local governments, and non-profit organizations to plant, care for, and protect trees.

One of the most important functions performed by the Texas Forest Service Urban Forestry Program is to maintain an accurate inventory of the trees that make up the urban forest areas in Texas. The Texas Sample Community Tree Inventory (TXSCTI) computer model system is used to create a census of trees in an area. In addition, satellite imagery and aerial photography are used to make an in-depth analysis of tree leafing. The images are then compared to previous years’ data. Measuring the trees that produce new leaves for the season helps to determine the health of different varieties of trees and how they respond to environmental conditions.

This may well be the most crucial time in our state’s history for its urban forest areas. According to a February, 2012 report by the Texas Forest Service, “An estimated 5.6 million trees that once shaded homes, streets and parks in communities across Texas are now dead as a result of last year’s unrelenting drought.” This number represents as much as 10 percent of the total number of trees that make up urban forests in Texas. And these estimates are only preliminary as trees continue to die from the ongoing drought.

Besides their intrinsic beauty, trees provide many environmental and economic benefits to urban landscapes. Trees help to reduce the amount of energy used by homes and buildings by keeping them cooler in the summer with their shade, and warmer in the winter by blocking cold north winds. A recent study reported that trees provide a total savings in energy costs to the Houston area alone of $131 million annually.

Trees improve air quality by capturing pollution particles in their leaves, reducing carbon dioxide, and producing oxygen. The same study reported that Houston’s urban forest removes 60,575 tons of air pollutants per year with an annual economic value to the area of nearly $300 million.

Trees improve the water quality of our rivers and streams, and prevent millions of gallons of water from needlessly entering sewage treatment plants, by capturing rainfall and reducing erosion and storm water runoff.

Trees provide food and shelter for a wide variety of wildlife. They provide privacy, and reduce noise and glare. Just the sight, sound, smell, and touch of plants and trees can reduce a person’s stress level and help provide a better quality of life.

Trees help to strengthen the local economy. Healthy, established trees can increase property values by 10 to 20 percent, which in turn can increase property tax assessments.

By analyzing our current urban forest inventory, its composition, its health, and its impact on our communities, both short-term and long-term management plans can be developed and implemented to maintain and expand our urban forest for generations to come.

You don’t have to be a major commercial developer, or Urban Forester to make a difference. Take a look at the numerous native trees that are adapted to your area and plant several in your yard. As the old adage goes, the best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, the next best time to plant a tree is today. Make sure that your trees are properly pruned and maintained. Get involved; I’ve started working with my homeowners association to form a neighborhood suburban forest program where I help my neighbors properly prune their trees, and offer tips on proper fertilization, watering, and care.

Imagine the day many years from now, while sitting in the shade with your grandchildren, that you will share the story of how you thought about them long before they were even born, while planting the tree under which you now sit.

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Make a Splash – Attract Birds to your Yard this Summer

Attract Birds_FI

(ARA) – When summer really heats up, there is nothing more refreshing than drinking a tall glass of ice water, taking a quick dip in the pool, or running through the backyard sprinkler with the kids. But what many people do not realize is clean, fresh water is as important to birds and other wildlife as it is for humans. Not only that, but birds actually enjoy splashing around and frolicking in the water just like we do.

With this in mind, create an inviting habitat for feathered friends right in your backyard or on your patio or balcony. It is easier than it seems, and there is no need for a big backyard to do it. Just providing the basic elements birds enjoy will establish your setting as a wildlife habitat. Water is one of the important resources birds need, along with food, shelter and a place to nest or raise young. For a quick and easy bird-friendly habitat, simply put out a bird feeder, hang a bird house, provide some nesting materials, and set up a watering place to drink and splash.

“Water is one of the most frequently overlooked resources we can add to our backyard to attract more birds and other wildlife,” says John Robinson, chief ornithologist at Scotts. “Every year, I am astonished by the new species that appear in backyards when owners are willing to share this simple yet critical resource with their feathered friends.”

Providing a source of water need not be a big endeavor. Water can be provided using a mister, slow drip, saucer, bird bath or pond. Below are some simple ways to incorporate water into your backyard.

Bird baths and saucers
Water in a saucer or bird bath will quickly and easily give area birds the water they need, even when placed on a balcony or patio. Stones with depressions that collect water will also help attract small birds and butterflies. Keep in mind you may need to change the water and clean the bird bath every few days to keep it fresh. In hot weather, it may even be necessary to refill the container every day.

Drippers
A great way to attract birds and other creatures to the backyard is to add a water drip feature to the bird bath. Because of birds’ heightened senses of hearing and sight, drippers are inviting. Create a drip feature by hanging a bucket or plastic milk jug with a tiny hole over the bird bath so water drips down into the bath slowly throughout the day. Or, hook up a garden hose to a specially designed drip tube you can purchase at local hardware stores or garden centers.

Misters
Another water feature gardeners often employ is a mister. A mister hooks to a garden hose and sprays a gentle mist over a garden or bird bath. Humans enjoy being cooled off by misters at amusement parks, and plants enjoy the refreshing spray of moisture, too. Birds enjoy frequenting misters to cool down and pollinators, like butterflies and bees, enjoy areas being misted because of the tiny water droplets the mist leaves on flowers. Misters can generally be found at local hardware store and garden centers.

Ponds
Whether large and elaborate or small and quaint, a backyard pond is guaranteed to attract birds and other wildlife. Most ponds found in urban or rural backyards are on the small side, most no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter. Ponds with a fountain are best because the sight and sound of splashing water will attract visitors, and moving water is less likely to become a breeding ground for mosquitoes or other insects. The addition of logs, rocks and other in-water structures provide a drinking and basking habitat for songbirds, as well as other wildlife such as turtles and butterflies. Aquatic snails or tadpoles are fun and natural ways to limit the growth of algae in the pond, and add an interesting element for kids to watch and enjoy.

This summer, when planning the water fun for the kids, don’t forget the birds. Water is very effective in drawing birds and wildlife to your backyard and is also a relaxing, scenic addition that can provide interest and enjoyment for the whole family. With the addition of a simple water source, you never know who may stop by your backyard habitat for a quick swim or a refreshing drink.

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